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Most Important Factor of a Bike: The Fit

By RL Policar
March 29, 2007 3 Min Read
0

I think people over look this part of a bike when shopping around for one. Most folks are checking out the components, amount of travel and the type of bike it is before checking out if the bike fits on them properly.

To me, it doesn’t matter how cool a bike looks, but if it doesn’t fit me correctly, then I’m not going to enjoy it at
all.

I have two bikes that I simply just love, my Ibex B27 and my Redline 925 Fixie. If you check out these bikes you’ll see that they aren’t anything special. Heck the parts on them are nothing to write home about, but I do love these bikes simply because they fit me like a glove.

The first thing I do is check my seat height. I’m looking to make sure that my legs are slightly bent when I am at the bottom of the down stroke.

Secondly I check to make sure my arms are too, slightly bent. Personally I don’t like to be hunched over too much. I like to be in a position of comfort. So I’ll mess around with the stem size or the angle of the handle bar just to get it fitted right. I don’t know what it is, but my arms must by stubby, because I typically ride with a shorter stem.

Since we’re on the subject of bars, that too is something that needs to be considered. Generally, stock bars on a mountain bike are about 25″ wide. Again, this is my preference, I like my bars wider. My Azonic Riser bar on the Ibex B27 is at least 27″ and it has a 1 1/2 rise to it.

Foot positioning is another aspect that needs to be addressed. Make sure that the ball of your foot is over the center of the pedal. If you’re using clipless pedals, make sure you pay attention to the cleat positioning. Any little inaccuracies can trigger knee or foot pain during or after the ride.

Check your seat angle. You want to make sure your seat is at a level position. Don’t tilt it too far up or down. If you have it leveled, it should feel just right. If its off a bit, it can cause pain in your lower back and on your privates.

If you feel cramped or too far out in the cockpit of the bike, consider adjusting the seat back and forth. The rails on most seats these days have numbers or lined guides to determine the distance of the seat. When you’re adjusting your seat, don’t go from one end of the rail to another, make micro adjustments. This ensures you’ll find the sweet spot.

Last but not least, lower your seat when hitting the downhill areas. I almost blacked out because I took a jump and hit my nuts on the seat. The pain was so much that by the time I stopped my bike and hit the ground rolling, I couldn’t remember a thing. Besides, if your seat is low during a technical downhill, you have a lower center of gravity, which makes your chances or doing an Endo less.

The Fezzari Alta Peak shown in the pictures fit me just right. I chose a shorter stem and have made adjustments to the seat, post, and handle bar angle. Those combination of adjustments have made the Alta Peak a great ride!

Once you find the right fit, you’ll be happy no matter if you spend $200 on your bike or $2000. Fit is everything! If you’re not sure how to achieve nirvana in your bike fitting, most shops can accommodate this process for you. You also might want to consider a Fit Calculator that our very own Moe designed.

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Author

RL Policar

RL Policar is an avid mountain biker and the Editor In-Chief of MtnBikeRiders.com and BikeCommuters.com. Between the two sites, he's published well over 4,000 articles (and growing).

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